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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.